Posted on 10 Comments

Grow Marigolds! They Are Awesome!

Every garden can use Marigolds. Find out these fun facts about why you need to add marigolds

Grow Marigolds… Let’s be honest, marigolds seem kind of out-dated. Yellow or orange balls of flowers you can get for $1 at big box stores. Sure they add some color, have a slightly strange scent, and weather neglect pretty well, but in reality they are just kind of the bland work horses of the garden. They are like the grandma of flower gardens and I resisted growing them for years!  Except they AREN’T outdated; marigolds are awesome!

Grow Marigolds

First, let’s just discuss the plant itself. Marigolds (or Tagetes for you Latin purists) are native to North and South America. Many of flowers in American garden’s are not usually native, so if you are from North or South America you should get some gardening brownie points just for using a native. Marigolds come in both annual and perennial varieties, though, most of the varieties you can get in the big box stores are going to be annuals.

That funky smell? BREATHE IT IN!  Well in some varieties it has been bred out, so if you don’t like it do not despair!  You can find a marigold that suits your sensitive nose. I, however, want that smell. You know why? It makes marigolds unattractive to predators (deer, bugs etc). In addition it ends up making plants grown next to them unattractive. So grow next to your tender cabbages, tomatoes, etc. Just keep it away from your legumes as marigolds have been known to interfere with their growth.  I have personally found the numbers of aphids and other pests tend to be significantly smaller on veggies and fruit surrounded by these lovely yellow and orange marigolds.

Growing marigolds is easy, but you can always buy them in most garden centers

Fun Facts

Marigolds are used to flavor and to color dishes in South America. They are also used in many Hindu religious ceremonies. I saw tons of them used in Holi to make beautiful garlands and necklaces. They are also often used to celebrate the day of the dead in Mexico. It is said you can feed marigold flowers to chickens to increase the color of their yoke. I have yet to try this experiment but I might this next summer and let you know how it goes.

Marigold garlands found in a temple in India during Holi
These marigold flower garlands were hanging throughout temples during our trip to see Holi in India.

How to Grow Marigolds

These flowers are perfect for first time gardeners. They will grow in almost any soil, deal with fluctuating water, and are very pest resistant. They grow easily from seed, which is why so many teachers send kids home with marigolds around Mother’s day.

Basically a marigold is as close as you can come to a pretty flower that needs minimal intervention.

Plant after danger of frost, as most marigolds prefer nice warm weather and full sun. Most Marigolds will sprout from seeds in 1-2 weeks. You can expect flowers to show 1-3 months after planting seeds. They do wonderful as starts you can transplant out or directly seeded in the ground. Transplants can get you blooming in late May to early June. Expect direct seeded to get going late June to Early July.

If you are buying marigold plants I like to pick plants with only a few open flower buds, so I can get the first good show of flowers after it acclimates to my soil. However, since most varieties will re-bloom feel free to grab a marigold with open flowers for instant color in your garden.

For the best blooms you will want good, well draining soil with a high organic content (really what plant doesn’t like that). Regular watering that allows it to dry in-between is preferred. As the blooms die cut them back (dead head) and it will bloom more. You can expect most commercial varieties to bloom from spring through to frost. As long as you cut off the old blossoms.

Marigolds mixed with vegetables like these scarlet runner beans make for an attractive garden.

Now to the Good Stuff

Marigold varieties! There are way more choices to be had than one would realize.  Which is why i saying growing marigolds is no longer just the business of little old ladies and elementary school children. You can pick plant sizes that go from tiny 6-12 inch to some truly spectacular varieties that grow more than 5 feet tall. I think most of us have seen the plain yellow and orange marigold varieties, but did you know you can get your hands on an almost white one? Green tinted Marigolds? How about an orange so dark it is almost red? Stripes? Ball shapes, daisy shapes, tiny florets, two toned petals? Marigolds have all of these and more.

I am personally trying some adorable teeny-tiny yellow marigolds this year from Sow True Seed. (affiliate link to follow) These lemon gem flowers should be showy in the new raised beds.

Marigolds mixed with other flowers in a potted border in India.
Marigolds add a bright warm punch to other flowers. This potted border had just started blooming when I visited India.

So expand your gardening past the basic ball shape and add some low growing varieties to drape over the edges of raised vegetable beds or as the border of a path. Plant a drift of large vanilla flowered marigolds to set off other pink, purple, or red showstoppers. Or just put a lovely stripped version in a flower pot to add some sunny notes to your windowsill. Marigolds size, shape, color variety and ease of growth make them more than a boring work horse for your garden. They open up the possibility of beautiful base flowers for the entire summer, so you can focus on more finicky flowers and vegetables.

Every garden can use Marigolds. Find out these fun facts about why you need to add marigolds to your garden and how easy they are to grow.

Every garden can use Marigolds. Find out these fun facts about why you need to add marigolds to your garden and how easy they are to grow.
Posted on 2 Comments

Why You Need A Secure Coop for Chickens

Why do some people need to have the fort knox of secure chicken coops?  We certainly had the Taj MaCoop at our previous house.  I personally have never free ranged my chickens since it is not allowed in the city, but I never realized why I needed such a secure coop.  Below are the reasons a secure coop and run is necessary for some flocks of chickens.  If you lack the space to free range and live in an area with wildlife you may need to go the extra mile with hardware cloth and heavy bolts just to keep you flock safe.

That coop withstood multiple dog attacks with zero signs of wear!
That coop withstood multiple dog attacks with zero signs of wear!

It is a sad week here at the Reaganskopp household.  With heavy hearts we had to rehome what was left of our chicken flock.  We moved them to our new home, the new girls started laying and everything was going fabulously… Until it wasn’t.

First, one of the three redneck chickens (bantams) got a case of bumble-foot that could not be cured.  So, I had to put her out of her misery.  Please know as a chicken owner you may end up dealing with things like this.  It is the ‘not fun’ part of owning livestock.  10 of 11 left…

Secondly, we had to leave town in a hurry to help with a family medical issue.  When we got back someone/thing had opened the gate releasing all the chickens for an entire weekend.  Luckily the girls took roost under the porch and made a nice dirt nest by the basement.  However, the silver laced wynadotte was never to be seen again.  Chicken count 9 of 11…

RIP Condi!
RIP Conde!

Oh number 3!  The day the bear came.  Loose fencing and a large bear make for an exciting Saturday morning.  The bear decided to drag our head chicken down the hill.  Condoleezza was my personal favorite so that was a real blow, plus I got the adrenaline rush of a life time when I came within a 2 feet of a large bear in the woods.  And yes, you read that correctly a bear…  I live in a city but that city is located in the mountains so we get exciting things like bears.  I had seen movement in the woods and thought it was our wayward chicken.  Nope it was the bear that had taken our chicken.  Backing slowly away worked well.  We moved closer to the river and have over 3 tenths of a wooded acre now (Huge in the City) so apparently that makes us bear central.  Do not get me started on our trash issues or the new bear safety lessons we have had with the kids… 8/11 (not looking so hot for the flock)

And the final straw after fixing the hole in the fence and bird netting the entire top of the run… Foxes.  Bears and Foxes.  Can. Not. Make. This. Up.  The foxes figured out a way to climb in-between the layers of netting.  They also decided to polish off the last two bantams.  Leaving behind half of one for me to fight a swarm of yellow jackets to clean up the remains.  Let’s just say that is a sight that can not be unseen.  Since we were down to 6 of our original 11 chickens we knew we had to take action fast.  We realize exactly what type of coop will have to be built to survive the wildlife on this side of town and that was not about to occur in a single day.  So we found a nice couple with a large free range area surrounded by an electric fence who were happy to have 6 laying chickens before the sun set and the foxes returned.

So that means we will eat the last of our eggs and have to go back to buying them at the farmers market like everyone else.  It also means that Adam is planning the most fabulous coop build over the winter so we can start fresh in the spring.  Now to save the money for the yards and yards of expensive hardware cloth it will require to make a safe space!

Adam's gorgeous Brahma did make it!  Though you can see her lovely foot feather much worse for wear after tangling with a fox the night before.
Adam’s gorgeous Brahma did make it! Though you can see her lovely foot feather much worse for wear after tangling with a fox the night before.

Moral of this story for anyone thinking of owning chickens.  Depending on the predator load in your area you may be fine with a simple netted run or even an open coop with full free range.  BUT if you have a lot of predators and the chickens only have a small space to roam you must have a secure place for them.  They are simply too easy and tempting to be left alone by any predator that can reach them if there isn’t adequate coverage for them to run and hide.  Our mistake was not realizing the difference a 2 mile move makes and providing a secure enough location up front.  At least we found a good home for the remaining flock and now have a plan in place for next year.

Going to miss all those eggs...
Going to miss all those eggs…
Posted on 7 Comments

Bees and Butterflies on the Rebound

Bumblebee on lavender

This week is pollinator week in in the United States.  National Pollinator week was created to bring awareness to all pollinators which include bees, butterflies, birds, and and bats.  In case you weren’t aware Asheville is a certified Bee City, USA.  There is a week long celebration to bring awareness to pollinators. As gardeners, I tend to think we take mental notes of all the environmental gloom and doom we hear. Global warming, bee colony collapse, droughts, pesticide, and the myriad of other environmental disasters that we both contribute to as humans and feel absolutely overwhelmed to stop. Well guess what, today I have good news! Honeybee and butterfly populations are on the rebound. The general scientific community believes this is in large part to increased interest in bee keeping AND gardeners like you and me.Butterfly on a flower

While it may be too early to tell it certainly looks like everyone had an impact by increasing habitat that was beneficial for pollinators. For example, monarch butterflies at their smallest population level were covering 1 hectare in their Mexican over wintering grounds. This past year they covered 4 hectares; nearly 3 times more than previous years! Some of the butterfly rebound can be attributed to favorable climate this past winter, but also to programs of planting herb and pesticide protected stands of milkweed. The plant necessary for monarch butterfly life cycle. Additionally, the Mexican government worked WITH the US government on this project. The US planted milkweed and Mexico work to crackdown on illegal logging in protect monarch forest land. How is that for some warm fuzzies and feeling like you make an impact?!

Throughout the US, Canada, and Europe the number bee hives have increased between 10-15%. This is due in large part to education about bee colony collapse and a renewed interest in backyard bee keeping. Additionally, increased interest in pollinator gardens have given more urban habitat for these small pollinators. Wonderful news all around!

Unfortunately it is not all Rainbows and Unicorns

Except, there are still issues for both honey bees, butterflies and other pollinators, despite the recent rebound numbers. First, lets tackle the bee situation. The colony increase are mostly due to an influx of beekeepers. These beekeepers are still reporting losses of 40-60% of their hives every year. Imagine if you lost 60% of your garden! or 60% of your craft projects failed! Every year. After Year. Shoo… I doubt most of us would keep at it. So there is a lot of concern that the be rebound is temporary because it is a hot button issue and the general colony collapse problem hasn’t gone away (and this is not the post to discuss those potential causes). It is still devastating any wild honey bee populations! The increase in butterflies is fragile and new. We are looking at basically 10 acres holding almost every monarch butterfly in the world. Logging those acres or remove their milkweed and we will be right back where we were. But do not get discouraged. Human efforts are making an impact in both places.Bumblebee on lavender

What As Gardeners Can We Do For Bees?

Gardeners can make a huge impact by offering plants for pollinators. Even if flowers aren’t your thing adding in a few lavenders or butterfly weed (milkweed) plants offers a respite for traveling bees and butterflies. Extra benefit, both of these plants are perennials so you plant them off to one side and forget about them. They will continue to benefit both your garden with plentiful pollinators for your fruits and veggies and benefit the insects with increased habitat.  Additionally they attract other types of native bees like bumble bees and mason bees.

If you want to get more involved you can work on cultivating a true pollinator garden. Here is just a short list of some plants that pollinators love and are easy to find at the local garden center. Plus not all of them are flowers. Many herbs also attract pollinators as good places for caterpillars and food when they flower.  Here are some of my favorites with affiliate links if you want to purchase.

And if you want to be a gold member of the ‘increase pollinator club’ you can leave a certain amount of ‘wild space’ and attempt to attract native bees as well. Wild space gardening has popped up all over Asheville. I’ll let you read up on their facebook page here. But the general idea is to have a healthy 4 foot by 4 foot space of wild friendly plants.House for Mason Bees

We have opted to do a combo. I am adding a number of pollinator friendly plants PLUS we just hung our first mason bee house to attract mason bees next spring. (Quick PSA: if you are interested in the complimentary butterfly house don’t bother. I researched it and they do not attract butterflies. I was sad, but happy I didn’t waste the money). I’m not opting for a honeybee hive as I really do not have the necessary property to adequately support a nice healthy hive. I went to a few classes and you need a certain number of clear feet just for them to enter and exit the hive. SIGH! Maybe the next house!

Now mason bees I can do. I’ll save all the details about them for a different post, but suffice to say they are tiny, native pollinators. The pictured house does attract them, they are safe non-aggressive bees (the males can’t even sting), and they are native to the entirety of North America. So we are going to try to attract these little green, blue, and tiny honeybee colored bees to our house while also adding more herbs, flowers, and plants to offer shelter to all pollinators. That way we can contribute to the awesome bee and butterfly rebound.

Bee hives in Chicago
Though some bee hives are not in my immediate future I did fine this located right in the middle of Chicago.


Posted on 7 Comments

Craft Thyme Does Canning!

If you have read Craft Thyme for any length of time you have probably realized we aren’t a cooking blog!  That being said, we (especially Adam) are decent cooks.  In addition to gardening and DIY I’m a not too shabby baker, but one of my hidden talents is canning.  If you do any type of vegetable gardening you will find that you have a surplus of something from time to time.  Canning is a great way to use up that produce without composting or giving it away.

If you have never canned it is easy and fun and takes very few tools.  I had the leisure of learning from my parents who make some amazing pickles, jams, and jellies.  However, if you do not have a family tradition of canning it is really easy to learn.  In fact, I wrote a guest post over at Creative Savings all about getting started with water bath canning!

canning-101-square

Please make sure to go check out How to Can over at Kalyn’s website! Book mark and save it for later this summer when you are over run with beets, cucumbers, squash, etc.  It will be a perfect way to save your produce and your dollars.

Posted on 71 Comments

How to Build Potato Boxes

Potato boxes

Short on garden space? Then a potato tower or potato box may be just what you need and we can show you just how to build a grow tower.  We currently have a smaller yard that we have worked hard to create an attractive edible landscape.  Growing potatoes in the ground doesn’t exactly conform to the small tidy asethetic we have going on.  I had taken a class on intensive gardening and recalled there was such a thing as a potato tower.  You can google potato boxes, potato towers, grow towers, and grow bags to get a visual on options.  All of these items are ways to grow potatoes in a small spaces, however, some are more aesthetically pleasing than others.

The basic idea of a potato box is you start at a bottom level and plant potatoes.  Then as the potatoes grow you add a level of wood, fill in with dirt, leave a few leaves poking out the top, and continue on up. Growing potatoes in this method should yield potatoes all along the buried stems.  The drawback to this method is you usually have to screw in each level as you go, buy tons of dirt, and it ends up looking like a plain wooden box. Don’t even get me started on the aesthetics of grow bags… While, we can’t help you with the dirt (it will take a lot), we did design a box with slide in slats, that matched the porch and trellises we have around the yard.  Using untreated wood (we aren’t huge fans of tons of chemicals around food we plan to eat), conduit, and some bolts, we made two potato towers that should last a few years.Potato boxes

How to Make a Potato Box

Materials

  • 1 – 2″ x 4″ x 144″
  • 1 – 2″ x 4″ x 96″
  • 5 – 2″ x 6″ x 96″
  • 2 – 3/4″ x 120″ Conduit
  • 16 – 5″ Hex Lag Bolts
  • 2.5″ Wood Screws
  • 1/2″ Drill Bit
  • Drill
  • Hammer (may be optional)
  • Nail set/Hole Punch (may also be optional)

Cut List

  • 4 – 2″ x 4″ x 33″ (From the 144″ board)
  • 2 – 2″ x 4″ x 24″
  • 2 – 2″ x 4″ x 21″
  • 10 – 2″ x 6″ x 24″
  • 10 – 2″ x 6″ x 21″
  • 8 – 3/4″ x 30″ Conduit

Potato Tower Construction

Construction of a potato box is rather straightforward – you’re just going to build a box several times over!  But first, we need a frame….

Potato Tower Frame

Lay two of your 33″ boards side-by-side with approximately 14″ between.  Use one of your freshly cut 2″ x 4″ x 21″ as a guide (3.5″ + 14″ + 3.5″ = 21″) to make this step a breeze.  Once evenly spaced, place one of the 2″ x 4″ x 21″s on top of one end the 33″ lumber and securely fasten with screws.  Your finished product should look something like a big U:

basic frame for a potato box

Repeat this same process using your two remaining 33″ sections and single remaining 2″ x 4″ x 21″.

Next, connect your two frames using the 2″ x 4″ x 24″ sections you’ve already cut. The 24″ board should fully overlap the existing frame.  Once fastened with screws, the resulting frame should be 24″ square around the bottom.

Conduit Slat Bracing

This is by far the hardest part of this project.  This is where you put in the work ahead of time to make management of your potato boxes easy.  This is where you wonder why you chose this route in the first place.  This is where the desire for an awesome look and feel comes together and you realize it was worth all the effort.

Why is this step so tough?  In order to use conduit as a bracing mechanism, you’ll first need to drill a through-and-through hole at the top and bottom of each piece of conduit.  Prior to drilling, mark your conduit 3/4″ from each end (and make sure your marks are in alignment!).

If you’re using a drill press (highly recommended to make this process a breeze), clamp your conduit to your drill press base and slowly drill a hold completely through the conduit where marked.

If you don’t have a drill press (like us), get ready for some fun….  Using a nail set/hole punch, make a small dent in the conduit where marked.  This small dent will allow your drill bit to grab enough of the conduit to start drilling.  Manually drilling into conduit is hard work.  Even after punching the conduit, starting the hole may be easier said than done.  Take your time and don’t rush the process.  Wear safety goggles, be patient, and stay safe.

Once you’ve drilled your 16 (gasp!) holes, it’s time to attach them to your potato box frame.  Using you 5″ hex lag bolts, begin screwing the conduit to the frame at the BOTTOM of the frame just above the bottom of the U.  As you do this, use one of your 2″ x 6″ boards as a spacer.  Repeat at the top of the conduit, then repeat for all remaining conduit pieces around the frame.Attaching bolts to potato tower

Make sure not to over tighten the conduit at this step.  You need to be able to slide the 2″ x 6″ boards in and out easily.  If you did over tighten, back the lag bolts out just a bit and you should be good to go.  Test sliding boards in and out of each side to ensure proper installation.

Test Fitting the Potato Box
We test fitted all the slats before installing

Slats

If you’ve already cut your 2″ x 6″ x 21″ and 2″ x 6″ x 24″ sections, this step is complete!  What do you do with them?  Keep reading….

Installing Your Potato Tower

If you have a nice level surface all you will need to do is put your tower on the ground, remove all the slats, and fill the bottom with dirt.  The frame and conduit make it nice and sturdy without a lot of fuss.  Unfortunately for us we live in the mountains; level surfaces are in short supply.  In those cases you may need to dig down slightly and make a level surface.  Since we had gone to the trouble to make such pretty boxes we used them to screen our HVAC unit.  The location meant that the backside of our boxes were slightly covered.  I figured, no big deal, as we were going to fill the first level with dirt.  In fact I used some of the excavated soil to begin filling the bottom of the boxes.Installing a potato box

Growing Potatoes in a Potato Box

While there are lots of techniques and details for growing potatoes in potato towers we are just going to go over the basics in this post. I highly suggest starting with a quality seed potato (Affiliate links to follow).  Luckily my favorite seed store, Sow True Seed, also has seed potatoes!  They even taught a potato planting class for free.  Love local companies!   We pre-sprouted (chitted) our potatoes, which involved setting a bunch of potatoes next to our grow lights a few weeks in advance.  Then we simply made sure each piece had at least a few viable sprouts put them in the dirt and covered them up.  Just water and go.  They have shot up much faster than expected so we have already had to put in a few levels and more dirt.  The one drawback of this method is the need to haul in soil.  However, my plan is to use the pile the dirt behind the boxes at the end of the year and mix in chicken manure to let it mellow all winter.  I figure after a couple of uses I’ll move it to the raised beds and get some fresh soil.  Basically making an in-place crop rotation.First tier of the potato tower

The nice piece about using the slide in slats is that we are going to attempt to pull out some potatoes mid-summer.  Slide out a slat, reach and and pull some potatoes, replace the dirt and put the slat back.  Not sure if it will work as expected but figured that is half the fun of gardening: Experimentation Potato Box Style!

growing potatoes in a potato tower

How to make a potato tower