Brianna

Posted on July 11, 2017January 20, 2019 by Brianna — 4 Comments

How to Build a Garden Box that Lasts

Completed version of our raised garden box. Also find information on how to prep your soil and make these goat wire trellises!

Before our last house I had never planted in raised beds, but let me tell you, it only took one planting season to make me a convert! Now that we (as in Adam) are in the new house we (as in I) had to build new garden boxes. But this time we wanted to figure out how to build a garden box that lasts, while not poisoning our veggies with lots of toxic chemicals from treated lumber OR spending a fortune on cedar. Since we figured out this magic combo we thought we would share our raised garden box plans with you so that you could also save some moola and be able to use the raised beds more than a few years!

Time to get all gardening controversial right out of the gate. Yes, shocking I know, but gardeners can have some very heated controversies. Especially us younger new-comers on the gardening scene who refuse to blindly go all organic. Yep, we scienced the heck out of these garden boxes. First and foremost, not all treated wood is the same. Most of it is complete crap that you wouldn’t want to touch unless you have gloved hands.

Most treated wood = STAY AWAY Veggies!

BUT there is one form of treated wood that would be safe to use. Micronized copper treated wood. While many still argue the safety we satisfied ourselves by reading page after page of research created by many extension agencies and laboratories. The worst issue we could find was that it could potentially release the same amount of copper as a copper pipe water system in your home. Additionally, if for some reason, large amounts of copper were leached into the soil your plants would die well before harvest. I urge you to do similar research for yourself and boldly disclaimer my choices. Basically be an adult, make your choices informed, and don’t sue us later if you do not like the outcome.

SHOOO, well now that all that science and research are out of the way let’s get on with learning how to build a garden box that lasts!

Garden Box Supplies

Fence Pickets
4×4 Posts
3″ Exterior Screws

Fence Pickets: Why are we using fence pickets as garden bed walls??? I know it seems odd because we are going to have to make an extra cut to remove the top piece but, first, they are cheap. Like cheap enough to make it worth the extra cut cheap. Secondly, there are two types of treated wood at our big box store. Despite what common sense would tell you, the treatment referred to as Ecolife is DECIDEDLY NOT Eco… The other common treatment technique utilizes Micronized Copper Azole (or MCA) and has been tested and used for decades in these applications.

Craft Thyme!

The directions below are to create one, two-layer 4 x 6 foot box. You can modify them to make any configuration you want.

Cut List

4 – 10″ Corner Posts
4 – 48″ Front/Back Bed Walls
4 – 70.75″ Side Bed Walls

Step 1: Assembly Line

We decided to do this assembly line style and do all of the cuts up front. Guess who got to cut too?! Me! I got a new saw for Adam’s birthday and his parents got him this hella cool stand for Christmas. While we can (and have) cut wood old school with a crap saw on the ground, this certainly made the project a lot smoother. Since this is a garden box we made square cuts. While mitering the corners might look lovely, the purpose of these boxes are to hold dirt… So cut time! We start from the square end of the board and then when you are done the dog-eared end of the fence post will be tossed away.

Step 2: Screw It!

Now it is time to screw. The easiest way to assemble is to start with the short end on a flat surface. Lay your 4X4 posts down and place your flat boards on them. Move the 4×4 posts in the width of one board (see the image) this will allow your long boards to sit flush when assembled. Try to get these as straight/square/level as possible. The straighter you have these sides the nicer your finished box will look. However, there is wiggle room with the posts. The end result will have small gaps the corners if your assembly is not straight. This might be less aesthetically pleasing but will still function correctly! I’m kind of the good enough camp… Adam had his level and square out… :)

Assembling a garden box — As you can see here we used a small piece of wood to gauge the space needed.

Screw each board using two screws into the 4×4 post. Repeat for the other short side.

Assembling a DIY garden box — We placed two screws in each board down the post.

Step 3: Time to connect

This is a great time to connect with your loved ones… by having them hold boards, but if you do not have a build partner you are still going to connect, because now it is time to connect those boards! A partner can help hold everything in place, but for either instance find as flat/level of a place and stand up your pre-assembled 4 ft end. Place the end of your board against the corner of the post starting at the bottom. Push it flush against the boards and as level as possible and screw in place. Take the other end of the board and connect it to the other short 4 foot end. Why connect both? Because when you have three sides assembled the structure becomes much more stable and easy to connect your boards.

Corner joint for DIY wood raised bed — Here you can see how we joined the edges and why a space was needed to attach the boards flush to the post.

Step 4: Rinse and Repeat

Connect one more board above the bottom layer and then connect the other side in the exact same manner as the first. For added stability we took a small scrap of wood and screwed it in the middle of each long side as shown in the picture. This step was simply to keep the boards nicely aligned. After that your beds are D.O.N.E. A bed this size is not lightweight but I could still easily drag it into place. Keep in mind you might want to build it near your final site if you are not into lifting all that wood.

Center bracing on a wooden garden box. — Here is the optional center bracing. It doesn’t have to be beautiful as it will be covered with dirt.

Step 5: Prepping (but not with a concrete bunker)

How to fill and prep raised beds is a hotly contested topic. No seriously! Gardeners can get their collective yard-work granny panties in a wad over how you fill your beds. I have my method outlined in the next post but for the purposes of making garden beds your last step is to install them. You can choose to leave them on top of the slope or dig down to install them in level ground. (Seriously, my method for prepping raised garden beds is cheap and awesome)

I have done both methods. I also find both attractive. You will see more of the box when simply laid on the ground (Plus it is MUCH easier) but having it level can be important if you are going for a certain look with goat wire trellises as we did in the photo below. This choice is really up to you! Once installed you then fill with planting material and get planting!!!

Raised beds leveled in a sloped landscape. — **This took a whole lot of digging!!!! Trellis in the next photo!**

Notes: Keeping soil from going through small gaps, soil mixes, how to reduce weeds, water retention, etc is all available in my how to prep bed post! Yeah, I am plugging myself but seriously it is awesome!

Complete Garden Box

Posted on May 1, 2017January 20, 2019 by Brianna — 10 Comments

Grow Marigolds! They Are Awesome!

Every garden can use Marigolds. Find out these fun facts about why you need to add marigolds

Grow Marigolds… Let’s be honest, marigolds seem kind of out-dated. Yellow or orange balls of flowers you can get for $1 at big box stores. Sure they add some color, have a slightly strange scent, and weather neglect pretty well, but in reality they are just kind of the bland work horses of the garden. They are like the grandma of flower gardens and I resisted growing them for years! Except they AREN’T outdated; marigolds are awesome!

Grow Marigolds

First, let’s just discuss the plant itself. Marigolds (or Tagetes for you Latin purists) are native to North and South America. Many of flowers in American garden’s are not usually native, so if you are from North or South America you should get some gardening brownie points just for using a native. Marigolds come in both annual and perennial varieties, though, most of the varieties you can get in the big box stores are going to be annuals.

That funky smell? BREATHE IT IN! Well in some varieties it has been bred out, so if you don’t like it do not despair! You can find a marigold that suits your sensitive nose. I, however, want that smell. You know why? It makes marigolds unattractive to predators (deer, bugs etc). In addition it ends up making plants grown next to them unattractive. So grow next to your tender cabbages, tomatoes, etc. Just keep it away from your legumes as marigolds have been known to interfere with their growth. I have personally found the numbers of aphids and other pests tend to be significantly smaller on veggies and fruit surrounded by these lovely yellow and orange marigolds.

Fun Facts

Marigolds are used to flavor and to color dishes in South America. They are also used in many Hindu religious ceremonies. I saw tons of them used in Holi to make beautiful garlands and necklaces. They are also often used to celebrate the day of the dead in Mexico. It is said you can feed marigold flowers to chickens to increase the color of their yoke. I have yet to try this experiment but I might this next summer and let you know how it goes.

Marigold garlands found in a temple in India during Holi — These marigold flower garlands were hanging throughout temples during our trip to see Holi in India.

How to Grow Marigolds

These flowers are perfect for first time gardeners. They will grow in almost any soil, deal with fluctuating water, and are very pest resistant. They grow easily from seed, which is why so many teachers send kids home with marigolds around Mother’s day.

Basically a marigold is as close as you can come to a pretty flower that needs minimal intervention.

Plant after danger of frost, as most marigolds prefer nice warm weather and full sun. Most Marigolds will sprout from seeds in 1-2 weeks. You can expect flowers to show 1-3 months after planting seeds. They do wonderful as starts you can transplant out or directly seeded in the ground. Transplants can get you blooming in late May to early June. Expect direct seeded to get going late June to Early July.

If you are buying marigold plants I like to pick plants with only a few open flower buds, so I can get the first good show of flowers after it acclimates to my soil. However, since most varieties will re-bloom feel free to grab a marigold with open flowers for instant color in your garden.

For the best blooms you will want good, well draining soil with a high organic content (really what plant doesn’t like that). Regular watering that allows it to dry in-between is preferred. As the blooms die cut them back (dead head) and it will bloom more. You can expect most commercial varieties to bloom from spring through to frost. As long as you cut off the old blossoms.

Now to the Good Stuff

Marigold varieties! There are way more choices to be had than one would realize. Which is why i saying growing marigolds is no longer just the business of little old ladies and elementary school children. You can pick plant sizes that go from tiny 6-12 inch to some truly spectacular varieties that grow more than 5 feet tall. I think most of us have seen the plain yellow and orange marigold varieties, but did you know you can get your hands on an almost white one? Green tinted Marigolds? How about an orange so dark it is almost red? Stripes? Ball shapes, daisy shapes, tiny florets, two toned petals? Marigolds have all of these and more.

I am personally trying some adorable teeny-tiny yellow marigolds this year from Sow True Seed. (affiliate link to follow) These lemon gem flowers should be showy in the new raised beds.

Marigolds mixed with other flowers in a potted border in India. — Marigolds add a bright warm punch to other flowers. This potted border had just started blooming when I visited India.

So expand your gardening past the basic ball shape and add some low growing varieties to drape over the edges of raised vegetable beds or as the border of a path. Plant a drift of large vanilla flowered marigolds to set off other pink, purple, or red showstoppers. Or just put a lovely stripped version in a flower pot to add some sunny notes to your windowsill. Marigolds size, shape, color variety and ease of growth make them more than a boring work horse for your garden. They open up the possibility of beautiful base flowers for the entire summer, so you can focus on more finicky flowers and vegetables.

Posted on February 27, 2017January 20, 2019 by Brianna — Leave a comment

How To Make Galvanized Pipe Curtain Rods

In our previous house we used black iron pipe for almost every single fixture. From pipe curtain rods to toilet paper holders we made them all. Black iron pipe curtain rods were economical, easy to install, and fit the industrial decor of the previous home. Once we moved down the street to a 1927 fixer upper we just didn’t feel the black iron was doing it for us. Still it is hard to beat the price of a pipe curtain rod… Especially when you are looking at putting curtains and blinds over 54 windows (le sigh). In comes our fancy take on pipe curtain rods with a couple of fresh designs in galvanized (silver) pipe.

Using galvanized pipe for curtain rods is not quite as economical as black iron, but still a shit-ton better than pre-made curtains rods, especially in the 8+ ft lengths needed. We originally made replicas of the former pipe curtain rods that you can read about here. However, it just wasn’t working for the installation and new space. We needed something more ‘interesting’. I came up with the random idea to install them from the ceiling. Adam took that idea and ran with it! He even came up with a few new end joints.

As typical for us we got most of the fittings from Zoro (affiliate links to follow) and got the actual lengths of pipe custom cut at our local home improvement store.

Supplies T- Connected Ceiling Mount Pipe Curtain Rod

2 – 1/2″ Galvanized Floor Flange
2 – 5-1/2″ x 1/2″ Galvanized Steel Nipple
2 – 3/4″ x 3/4″ x 1/2″ Galvanized Reducing Tee
2 – 1/2″ Galvanized Pipe Cap

Supplies Curved Ceiling Mount Pipe Curtain Rod

2 – 1/2″ Galvanized Floor Flange
2 – 5-1/2″ x 1/2″ Galvanized Steel Nipple
2 – 1/2″ Galvanized 90 Degree Elbow

T – Connected Galvanized Pipe Curtain Rod

Step 1

Usually Adam writes these instructions since these pipe curtain rod styles are his creations, but I thought I would take a stab at it. Plus how often do I get to write about nipples, rods, and elbows? Ah yeah!

You’ll need to make two brackets to hold your rod.

Connect a nipple to a flange.
Connect a tee to the other side of the nipple.
Hand-tighten everything

Step 2

Install one of the brackets in position from the ceiling. Use appropriate fasteners. We were able to hook into the lathe behind the plaster, but I highly suggest at least one or two drywall anchors meant to hold a lot of weight. Maybe that is because we have small kids and I just picture them hanging on the curtains regularly…

If you are working solo then mount both brackets, measure, and try to line everything up so you can simply slide your rod into place when done. There is a little wiggle room on the brackets but you need to try to get them the same distance away from the wall and left/right from the window.

If you have two people it can be easier to mount one bracket where you want it and slide the rod with second bracket into place, then have your helper mount the second bracket. It is a lot easier to measure the distance from your window in multiple places when the rod is already in. (Insert giggles about rods)

Step 3

Slide the rod in to make sure you mounted everything correctly then back out one side and put your curtains on. Then cap both ends. Before you ask, yes, they will shift a bit in the bracket. It has never bothered me. When I open the right side it shifts right, then it goes right back to center when I open the left. If you really hate the shifting aspect you could glue them in place (Use some construction adhesive meant for metal) or follow design option #2.

Ceiling Mounted Curved Pipe Curtain Rod

Step 1

Just like previously, you’ll need to make two brackets to hold your rod.

Connect a nipple to a flange.
Connect an elbow to the other side of the nipple.
Hand-tighten everything

Step 2

This is where the assembly differs, step 2 & 3 get combined into one arm weakening installation. Frankly although it adds a bit in installation time we highly suggest giving your galvanized pipe curtain rod a test fit. This entails assembling the whole rod, sans curtain. To assemble simply put your elbows brackets on both ends of your rod.

You will likely need a helper at this point to help hold the curtain rod to the ceiling. We checked to make sure we were centered with the windows and marked our mounting holes. You can just go balls out if you like and do the next steps without a dry run, but I think you’ll be happier with the outcome if you test the assembly out first.

Then the fun begins! You will need to take one elbow bracket off put and put your curtains on the rod. Then screw the bracket back in place assembling the whole thing completely. Yes, now you will need to lift the whole mother-trucker into place, while not yelling at your ~~spouse~~ helper, and mount it. While not horrifically heavy, you are still going to want to get that portion over quickly.

After that you can stand back and admire your handiwork! Oh yeah, that really is a fabulous DIY pulley light we will be showing you soon!

Posted on February 13, 2017January 20, 2019 by Brianna — 3 Comments

Replacement Windows, The Finished Project Before and After

If you have been following along with our vinyl replacement window saga than you are probably more than ready to see the final product. Here are some shots of what it looks like to have 52 original single hung windows replaced with new vinyl casement windows. If you are interested in the process of having replacement windows installed you can read all about the process in the below pages. Hopefully, all the information provided will allow you to circumvent some of the issues we had with installation of our replacement windows.

Oh and for full disclosure. We paid for all of this work ourselves. I am solely providing this information to help others out. Home renovation is scary and costly at the best of times. I wish I had some of this knowledge before going in on a major renovation like replacement windows for the first time in one unbiased place.

Everything You Need to Know About Replacement Windows: An Intro Primer

What to Expect When Installing Replacement Windows

Replacement Window Installation: The Actual Process

Capping A Metal Alternative to Finishing your Windows: Got Lead? Got Ugly? Capping Can Help

So now that you have heard all about the process of replacement windows it is time to actually see them in action!

Bam! Before & After

Yes, that is two of the 52 replacement windows in all of its finished glory.

And here is a nice set on the front porch

Oh and it looks good from the interior too!

Follow our guide to have smooth vinyl replacement window installation. — I think it modernizes the house! Which was great but also increased out tax value :(. This picture is from our local paper by Maddy Jones. You can see the article at the Citizen Times Website. While the increased taxes made us sad the lack of drafts and the crisp modern look was worth all the effort!

Posted on February 6, 2017January 20, 2019 by Brianna — 3 Comments

Capping A Metal Alternative to Finishing your Windows: Got Lead? Got Ugly? Capping Can Help

Mitered corners in plain frame metal capping.

As mentioned prior, we opted to have metal window capping, also know as metal window cladding, installed with our vinyl replacement windows. Would metal capping be a good finish for your replacement windows? Well that all depends on the look you are trying to achieve and if you have an older home and want to decrease lead exposure and abatement costs.

In our case we wanted to decrease the potential for lead paint exposure in our 1927 home. We did not bother to test for lead we just went with the assumption that there was a good potential in our almost 90 year old home. The exterior trim was in poor shape and hadn’t been repainted in years; with those two issues metal window capping seemed like a good alternative to scraping, painting, and reinstalling new trim after the replacement window installation. If you want to read about the process from start to finish we have other information about replacement windows here:

Everything You Need to Know About Replacement Windows: An Intro Primer

What to Expect When Installing Replacement Windows

Replacement Window Installation: The Actual Process

Replacement Windows, The Finished Project Before and After

What is Metal Window Capping?

Metal capping is usually thin aluminum sheets that have been coated in color. The metal is then bent to cover the trim. I have heard of vinyl capping as well but we only looked at window trim clad in metal. One company offered a very thin aluminum sheeting that would be almost pressed around the current trim to give it a coating of thin sheet metal. The assumption and description from the company is that the tight fit would more mirror the current fluted trim. However, the thin pieces of metal would not be quite as protective. The company we went with used a much more rigid material that could be manipulated to give flutes and bends or kept fairly straight for a modern look and provided a bit more protection. The downside is it could not follow the original trim.

Damage to old trim prior to metal window cladding. — Trust! This trim is clearly not worth trying to save. Metal window capping to the rescue.

Differences in Window Capping

We learned the hard way not all capping is the same. To this day I still am not sure why there was such a mess up with ours but our experience with capping went like this:

First, we got a deck of color options. We went back and forth but settled on a black, with a slight bit of texture. The plan was to have the rest of the trim, garage, and stucco painted in the spring. We figured black would be easy to match and really set off the windows in the brick. As the window company was getting ready to place our order they called to check back about the color selection. The salesman suggested we might like a smooth matte aluminum window cladding instead of the slightly textured one we had chosen. The textured one also had a semi-gloss appearance to the finish. Well hell’s yeah! Smooth matte black sounded perfect to give a modern finish to the house. With no additional cost we were all like “order it up and count us in”!

However, in comes installation day for the first pieces of capping. OMG no! The process of installation scratched the ever-loving hell out of it. Of course the installation crew says, yeah this is common with this flat matte finish. That the original one we picked out is coated to reduce scratching…

Why this wasn’t mentioned at order time I have no idea. I even asked for the differences between the one we chose and the one suggested… All I can assume is that the salesperson did not know the difference. *Sigh* It took a week and a half to get the new (original) choice in, but the window company was more than happy to eat the cost of the one opened box and re-order a better solution. It put the project behind even further on completion (as I write this there are installers banging away at metal sheets outside), but looks so much better than gouges with touch up paint.

So the moral of this story? Not all metal window capping is the same. Some of them have fade, scratch, and weather protection. There are a variety of finishes as well as colors. Additionally the thickness of the metal will provide protection but also dictate some of the final shapes that can be achieved at installation. Make sure to get a UV resistant one if you are going with a dark or bright color. Some fading over time is unavoidable but UV protection will help to manage and minimize the fading due to sun, hopefully, keeping your capping looking fresh far longer than a paint job would.

How Window Cladding is Installed is VERY Important

The installation of the window cladding is super important for two reason:

Look
Protection

First, the look of the capping is important. As discussed above the metal capping can be bent into various shapes. The window company originally tried to mimic our ornate trim. They were more than happy to scale back to a very plain wrap at our request :). Which was good all around because we ended up having some of the “hardest trim to cover” the window company had ever seen. The bends and twists meant that they had to add wooden shims in any place they wanted to nail down the metal to keep from giving it ugly ripples and bends.

Shims are inserted on the exterior of these replacement windows to correctly apply metal window capping. — Shim, shimmeny, shim, shimmeny, shim, shim, sherroooo….

Which leads to the importance of #2: Protection

During our research we uncovered that one of the downfalls of capping is that if not installed correctly it can lead to damage inside the home. It is very important that they install capping in a way that sheds water. Otherwise you are creating a closed environment that will trap water against the old wood trim. Obviously a recipe for rot and mold! At this point in our installation we were on a first name basis with members of the crew and they were happy to walk us through why they were installing the trim as they were.

First the bottom sill layer went on. It is done in one long piece with notches cut and folded up. This will keep water off of the trim and sill. The sides and middle layers are then installed straight up. The straight join at the bottom is created to make sure to shed all water off of the windows and out of the sill. A final top piece with mitered edges is installed to cover the top pieces and give a crisp finished look to the top. Any places that gap a bit too much have a black caulk installed at the seams but not fully sealing the area so that it can breath and shed water. If you look closely on the windows you can see there is a tiny channel on each of the replacement windows. This channel holds the edge of the capping firmly along the window leaving no space for water to find its way in.

Correctly installed metal window capping — Just a touch of caulk was added to the bottom seam.

To Recap the Window Capping

Make sure to get a resilient metal material that can be installed in a way that will go with the overall look you are trying to achieve. Secondly, think about long term protective coatings. The cost difference was negligible but one coating was much more likely to withstand wear and tear. Finally, make sure your installation crew has a water plan in place. Poor installation can create more problems with rot and mold than it solves.

I have to admit I was thoroughly impressed with the final result of the metal window capping. It gave a crisper modern edge to the replacement window installation than would have been possible with a scrape and paint of the existing trim. It also allowed us to install a lot more insulation than previously further cutting down on the drafts of an old home.